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SLEEVE HEAD ATTACHMENT - SEWING TUTORIAL

The Vita pattern looks its best in drapey airy fabrics because of the loose silhouette - but in contrast we have the puffy sleeves that require structure which you won't get from these fabrics.

I came up with a couple of additional features to the pattern. The first one is to interface the sleeve top, much like you would with tailored jacket. However you can't do that to all fabrics, specially the more see through ones. 

So thinking about that, I have created an additional piece that I am calling the sleeve head attachment. This piece is here to fill and support the puffy sleeve. 

You only need to make it if are working with the views A&C of the Vita pattern. You will the pattern pieces 11 and 12.

FABRIC OPTIONS

The best kind of fabric to make the sleeve head is synthetic organza (don't panic!) there are times and times when you need the help of poly fabrics and this is one of them! I will tell you why: synthetic organza doesn't wrinkle and won't crash under the weight of the puffy sleeve.

Alternatively you can use tulle, but bear in mind to choose a tulle that is not hard against the skin -  another thing to take into consideration is; if the tulle is too soft you may not have enough volume, but you can always cut more the one layer for each sleeve and treat it as if they were one.

You will also need a small piece of fabric to cut the bias binding, in this tutorial I have used the same fabric as the blouse.

LETS GET STARTED

Fold the sleeve head in half, pin it lengthwise matching the centre notch.

With a basting stitch, sew two gathering lines within the seam allowance of 1.5 cm (5/8").

Pull together the bobbin thread to create gathers - the closer together the gathers are the puffier the sleeve head will be - I generally recommend it to be 15 cm (6") wide but test it! As the fullness may vary depending on the fabric you are using or personal taste.

Make sure when repeating this step both sleeve attachments are of the same size!

Pin the sleeve head to the bias binding piece, sew it at 1 cm (3/8"). If you have fraying edges trim them. 

Fold opposite edge of the bias binding at about 1 cm (3/8").

You may need to trim side edges of the bias binding, leave about 1.5 cm (5/8"). Fold the side edges in. 

Fold and pin along the bias binding to encase the raw edges of the sleeve head.

Sew the bias binding in place at 2 mm (less than 1/8").

Take the sleeve head to the ironing board and press the bias binding piece only - you will need to press the bias binding flat to make it easier to sew over it later.

ATTACHING THE SLEEVE HEAD

To find the middle part, fold sleeve head attachment in half place a pin in the middle.

Press the seam allowances on the armholes only, before you run it through the overlock (or preferred seam finishing).

With the garment inside out, Match the centre of the sleeve attachment to the shoulder seam. Pin it in place.

Sew the binding side of the sleeve attachment to the armhole of the garment, Stitch within the seam allowance at about 2 mm (less than 1/8") from the edge of binding.

You can always stitch a second stitching line on the binding piece. I would recommend, to stitch it on the opposite side of the binding piece.

Make sure the binding is only sewn to the seam allowance.

 Turn it inside out, and press seam allowance towards the armhole, and voila!!!

 

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