With that in mind I found the Bernina fabric feeding aid - I don't know if every sewing machine manufacture have anything similar, that's up to you to look for that info, but that's what I found for my Bernina.
I was very excited to give this little gadget a try! Because it does disappoint me that I cannot make a nice "fully" rounded buttonhole, even with my Bernina which quite a nice heavy machine.
I must say that when I first tested it looked VERY processing! But as we all know you it can a different story once you get to sew on the final garment. The weight of the final piece can interfere with the how the machine pulls the fabric, and a coat is probably the heaviest garment to make a buttonhole.
After a few tries and unpicking I did managed to sew a very acceptable buttonhole. Would I recommend it, maybe! It did make a nice buttonhole but not before I had to unpick a few times.
For those how don't have something like this gadget or for the ones who have it nevertheless, DON'T DRIVE YOURSELF CRAZY - the best thing is to forget about it, because once you are wearing it you won't even remember the buttonhole experience - who am I kidding? I wish (laugh).
Of course there are alternatives to scape the buttonholes, what are they Bella?
Well not making them for once - joking! - You should always face what scares you in sewing, that's my motor!
- You can take a professional buttonhole place, some cities have it - I know London has it, although I never taken there, I have seamstress friend of mine who does it for her clients.
- Bound buttonholes
- Hand sewn buttonhole
- Poppers - there's a time and place for it, if the area will have a lot of pressure it might not hold it in place. Also on a coat/jackets exposed metal doesn't look nice, the nicest way and more professional is to cover them with a matching lining fabric. (I'll make a video on this!)
Anyway! I have also made a Youtube video where you can see the fabric feeding in action click here to watch.
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Follow the links below to watch the Linda dress sewing tutorial, I hope you enjoy sewing it!
The tutorial was divided in two parts, there will be a separate post on how to alter the sleeve with the measurements , so don't worry.
Part 1
Part 2
]]>Welcome my new design, the Flor wrap dress & cropped top. Flor is very romantic and feminine design, with lots of options to customise it and make it your own.
I am very much attracted to details and sewing techniques here at Bella Loves Patterns, and I really wanted to create a unique wrap dress that wouldn’t have common issues like flashing your legs or showing too much cleavage.
I definitely think if you have not until now been into wrap dresses, you should still try to make Flor. The V neckline comes at the perfect height and wraps quite far into the waistband. Additionally, the weight of the tiered skirt stops it from exposing your legs too much.
Flor is our best work to date, and probably the easiest booklet instructions to follow I have ever made, complete with easy to follow instructions and clear diagrams.
Flor is currently available in our shop in UK sizes 6 to 20 and cup sizes B, C and D. As for this style the fit across the bust is crucial, we have endeavoured to help you get as close as possible to a perfect fit by including additional cup sizes.
This pattern was designed for woven fabrics with some structure, and due to the nature of the style we don’t recommend going for drapey fabrics as the ruffle wouldn’t hold the shape. If you wish something with a little less drama, you can always choose cotton or linen blends are perfect for the dress version.
You will be able to customise Flor as you wish! The pattern lends itself very well to colour blocking and playing with different prints.
View A of the Flor pattern is a cropped top that looks great worn with high waist trousers or skirts. I think it would look quite cute worn over a simple swimsuit too!
The cropped top version looks quite nice when made in a more structured cotton, such as shirting cottons, popelin, broderie anglaise or any light-weight structured fabric that can make the shoulder ruffles come to life.
I have made this floral sample in a popelin and the white sample in a broderie anglaise.
The wrap dress version is a midi length dress with a gathered waist skirt, a tiered bottom ruffle and optional inseam pockets.
I made the lilac dress was made in a cotton linen blend.
Flor comes with clear step-by-step illustrations to guide you to make the perfect wrap dress or top!
You can find the Flor wrap dress & cropped top available in our shop as a PDF file. To commemorate the launch, this week only I am offering a 15% discount on the pattern using the code FLOR15.
You can find more pictures using the hashtag #BlpFlor. Find the pattern in here.
I hope you enjoy making Flor as much as I have enjoyed designing it.
Floral fabric: Fabric Godmother (Out of stock)
Lilac fabric: Linen cotton blend from my personal stash
Broidery anglaise: sponsored by Minerva Crafts
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Vita was tested by the most talented, skill-full and helpful group of sewists in the community. I literally cannot thank them enough for their honest and constructive criticism and help to bring this pattern to life.
I had it done in a open group on Slack, which by the way I had never used before – but it all turned out to be a very enjoyable experience, I cannot wait to repeat! I want to thank Lisa who showed me how it worked and how I could keep things organised.
Let me tell you shirring is not difficult! You just need to take sometime to set up the machine, but is totally doable. Most testers figured out shirring rather quickly, some already knew it but hadn’t practised for sometime and some learnt it by making the pattern.
The most complex part of the pattern was on how to attach the neckband to the neckline! Yeah, there is a way to do it and I would highly recommend watching it here and for more Vita tutorials here.
The last week of testing is literally the best week! What were just bits of fabrics now start taking the shape and the most beautiful pictures start to come in. You girls have no idea how happy you made my days!
Alyssa made the view A, in this stunning deep green fabric. These pictures will truly take your breath away, she made Vita almost as gorgeous as she is! Alyssa also added inseam pockets.
The super talented Eva made it in a sheer fabric and altered the sleeves bottom part from the view A&C - in case you are wondering, the cuffs are not interchangeable, to change the cuff you need to remove or add length, which was what Eva did in her version.
The super creative and lovely Giulia made the view B with the back bow closure. How pretty is this version in a baby blue?
How beautifully stylish Louise looks in her Vita!
The sweet Lisa used an ex-duvet cover to make Vita, that is such a great idea! The shirring looks perfect!
Vesna started her Vita dress as a toile, it turned out that the fabric was perfect for the pattern, but she didn't have enough to make the skirt. She managed to get hold of the same print, but the new fabric was not the exact same shade. Imagine having to do all the shirring again! Lucky us because it was the perfect fabric.
The beautiful Pauline had a break from making face masks to create this super chic version.
Andrea is one of the most stylish sewists out there; this version has both drape and the perfect shoulder structure and she looks even more beautiful in it.
Allison made Vita in this beautiful gingham version from a fabric swap - I love it when pattern testing allows testers to go through their fabric stash.
What is there not to love about Bobby’s Vita? The perfect light-weight cotton for the pattern, the shirring is perfect and she looks so cute!
Anyone who follows Sharlene knows she loves a big statement sleeve! It looks so beautiful in this light-weight silky fabric.
The super elegant Jenny made Vita in a beautiful drapey crepe.
The talented Hannah made Vita in this beautiful crepe fabric. I love the idea of wearing Vita with high waist trousers, so chic!
I love that Renata made the shirred parts of the pattern really stand out. She also vlogged about it on her Youtube channel.
It was such a pleasure to have Victoria testing Vita, she really gives life and joy to any pattern. I love how she styled Vita!
The super sweet Alison made Vita in this beautiful printed cotton.
You’ve got to love Chloe’s Vita, she made it in this beautiful drapey viscose with the back bow closure.
Last but not least we have Cathrin. She made the blouse for her super cute sister in the most exquisite vintage fabric. Isn’t it perfection?
Just a quick reminder, to test our patterns you are not required to share pretty pictures or even promote the pattern - I usually like to show the pattern before to potential testers so they know if they would like to make the garment.
That is it for now, hope you got inspired to make the Vita pattern. You can always check the hashtag #BlpVita for more beautiful versions. If you make the pattern please share the love by tagging us to your posts.
If you would like to be notified about pattern testing opportunities or new releases subscribe to out newsletter (or at the bottom of this page).
Happy sewing!
The Vita pattern looks its best in drapey airy fabrics because of the loose silhouette - but in contrast we have the puffy sleeves that require structure which you won't get from these fabrics.
I came up with a couple of additional features to the pattern. The first one is to interface the sleeve top, much like you would with tailored jacket. However you can't do that to all fabrics, specially the more see through ones.
So thinking about that, I have created an additional piece that I am calling the sleeve head attachment. This piece is here to fill and support the puffy sleeve.
You only need to make it if are working with the views A&C of the Vita pattern. You will the pattern pieces 11 and 12.
The best kind of fabric to make the sleeve head is synthetic organza (don't panic!) there are times and times when you need the help of poly fabrics and this is one of them! I will tell you why: synthetic organza doesn't wrinkle and won't crash under the weight of the puffy sleeve.
Alternatively you can use tulle, but bear in mind to choose a tulle that is not hard against the skin - another thing to take into consideration is; if the tulle is too soft you may not have enough volume, but you can always cut more the one layer for each sleeve and treat it as if they were one.
You will also need a small piece of fabric to cut the bias binding, in this tutorial I have used the same fabric as the blouse.
Fold the sleeve head in half, pin it lengthwise matching the centre notch.
With a basting stitch, sew two gathering lines within the seam allowance of 1.5 cm (5/8").
Pull together the bobbin thread to create gathers - the closer together the gathers are the puffier the sleeve head will be - I generally recommend it to be 15 cm (6") wide but test it! As the fullness may vary depending on the fabric you are using or personal taste.
Make sure when repeating this step both sleeve attachments are of the same size!
Pin the sleeve head to the bias binding piece, sew it at 1 cm (3/8"). If you have fraying edges trim them.
Fold opposite edge of the bias binding at about 1 cm (3/8").
You may need to trim side edges of the bias binding, leave about 1.5 cm (5/8"). Fold the side edges in.
Fold and pin along the bias binding to encase the raw edges of the sleeve head.
Sew the bias binding in place at 2 mm (less than 1/8").
Take the sleeve head to the ironing board and press the bias binding piece only - you will need to press the bias binding flat to make it easier to sew over it later.
To find the middle part, fold sleeve head attachment in half place a pin in the middle.
Press the seam allowances on the armholes only, before you run it through the overlock (or preferred seam finishing).
With the garment inside out, Match the centre of the sleeve attachment to the shoulder seam. Pin it in place.
Sew the binding side of the sleeve attachment to the armhole of the garment, Stitch within the seam allowance at about 2 mm (less than 1/8") from the edge of binding.
You can always stitch a second stitching line on the binding piece. I would recommend, to stitch it on the opposite side of the binding piece.
Make sure the binding is only sewn to the seam allowance.
Turn it inside out, and press seam allowance towards the armhole, and voila!!!
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This may surprise you but I wind my bobbin by machine, in fact that’s how I have always done it. I learnt shirring back in the early 2000’s from my mum as a kid who could not even install an invisible zip. As a result, lots of my clothes had shirred panels in them. The way I learnt to shirr was to set the bobbin just like the regular thread, no mystery.
Just only recently while searching for some more information on shirring or even what to write about it, I realised that not many people in the sewing community were filling the bobbins like me, that is by machine. Instead, all I could find were articles and Youtube videos of other sewists showing how to wind it by hand - I found it all very strange.
I have absolutely zero experience with winding the bobbin by hand, but I can show you how I do by machine. To keep the tension in check, a word of advice at this point is that you shouldn’t be afraid of it: you will need it! Shirring elastic is not like regular thread, so you need to help the machine to create it, not only by having the right stitching length or tension but also the way you feed the fabric through the machine.
I don’t think in sewing there is a wrong or right way to make something, but as long as you reach the same final result I think everything is valid.
In the first video, I will show you how to create the shirring of the neckband and the same principle applies to other steps of the Vita pattern.
In the second video, I will show you how to attach the neckband - it may look a little challenging at first but there is a right and easier way to attach the neckband and I would highly recommend watching the video to anyone planning to make the pattern.
The instructions booklet goes through this step in great detail, but I think nothing beats the power of a video.
The final video in the series is on how to create and attach the cuff to the sleeve.
I hope these videos were useful and have helped you to make the Vita pattern.
Share the love with us by using the hashtag #BlpVita and don’t forget to tag @bellalovespatterns to your post so I get to see it. I hope you all love this pattern as much as I do.
Happy sewing!
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Meet Vita: the new Bella Loves Patterns dress and blouse! After months of hard work and lots of back and forth Vita is finally here! To celebrate get a 20% off on the pattern until May 11th at the check out.
I know lots of you have been waiting for this for some time now! The wait is now over and you’ve had enough of me teasing you with pictures of shirred cuffs on Instagram, right? Now you will get the full view of the pattern in all its glory.
Vita is the first dress I am adding to the collection and it is a super feminine pattern inspired by the Victorian & Edwardian era. There is also a very princess Diana vibe about it (I can’t say I wasn’t influenced by her 70’s style tea dresses!). All this royal inspiration aside, Vita will definitely make you feel chic and confident for that work meeting or a special occasion.
Vita has a very forgiving loose silhouette that will suit many body shapes regardless if you choose to make it as a dress or blouse.
The dress version has a shirred waist line and a below-the-knee skirt with side vents. Vita looks perfect in light-weight fabrics with drape. The shirred neckband is present in all views with a charming back split opening.
The pattern comes with two options for the sleeves. The first is a puffy, gathered sleeve with an internal sleeve head to give the light-weight fabrics structure and volume to the shoulders. To finish it off, the sleeves have a narrow, shirred cuff. The second is a simple bishop sleeve with wide, shirred cuff option.
For sure you are asking if you can mix and match the cuffs? The answer is yes but not without hacking the sleeve length! In fact one of the lovely testers hacked the View B sleeve with the narrow cuffs from View A and it looked gorgeous - I am hoping to be able to share some of their versions soon. Hang in there!
The blouses in View C&D are an extension of the dresses without the shirred waist line. They look perfect worn loose or tucked in - you can also hack this blouse into a little shift dress by extending the length (I am getting ideas while writing this post!). I have made the blouses with the back bow closure, but you can have it made with the buttons instead.
Vita is packed with small delicate details that make it the perfect pattern for intermediate sewists. As mentioned above, Vita includes two optional back closures. Although I have made both dresses with a buttoned-up back and the two blouse versions with the bow closure, you can definitely mix and match to make it your own.
Vita is the perfect pattern to up your sewing game as it introduces you to the shirring technique. Whether you are new to it or more experienced sewist, it is a very challenging pattern to stretch your skills to the next level.
I have prepared a very detailed instructions booklet to guide you on how to set up your machine and how to wind the bobbin by machine! Yeah, believe me it is possible! - I know many people do it by hand, but it is not impossible to have it done by machine, that was how all my samples were made. You will feel like a champion once you master this technique!
Vita is available as a PDF pattern in UK sizes 6 to 20 and it comes in A4 and letter paper format. If you don’t feel like taping pages together, there the A0 Copyshop file. The pattern also comes with the most detailed instructions booklet I’ve ever made.
I don’t yet know if I am going to be preparing a full formal sewalong detailing the full process, but I made three videos showing the most challenging parts for now. Later I might be adding more blog posts to this pattern. You can find the tutorials here.
Share the love with us by using the hashtag #BlpVita and don’t forget to tag @bellalovespatterns to your post so I get to see it. I hope you all love this pattern as much as I do. Find the pattern here.
Happy sewing!
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Today is the first of March and all I can think of is spring, those warmer days where you can finally leave that winter coat locked away and at last start planning some spring summer sewing.
Around this time last year I started drafting my first ever swimsuit, we were heading to Brazil to see my family. And I knew although I wasn't going to be near the seaside for most of my stay there, at some point I would go to the beach.
I wanted to design and make my own swimsuit, that would also be the first time I would attempt to make one. I decided by first investing some money on a dress form that I could use to draft the pattern. I needed something with legs! - I don't really do flat drafting I mostly drape and draw the lines on the stand.
I've found this dress form on Etsy, which looked to me like it would do a good job without costing me a huge amount of money. We don't have the same torso length or body measurements - I also I wanted to buy something that I could use for BLP patterns together with the stand I already own but with legs.
So after purchasing the dress form I was ready and set to draft my swimsuit!
Most often when I want to make something I go around shops checking finishing techniques and this time was not different. This is definitely part of the home work of working on a new pattern, even if it is for myself.
The front twist was quite tricky to get it right, I had to do a few tests until I was ready to cut and sew a full sample. Which guess what? I wasn't quite what I wanted but I got to try how to set the elastic in.
For most of the construction things like side seams, crotch and installing the elastic I used my overlocker. And all the front twist I made on my domestic sewing machine using a walking foot, this was also the first time I used one, it really helped me a lot.
I didn't use any special swimwear elastic, first because I couldn't find it and second I never used that kind of elastic either. And it gives me the impression it is hard to set it in. So I just used conventional elastic and it worked perfectly fine and it didn't give me any extra headache.
So here are some shots from last April, I didn't initially want to share this pics, but you know what? I was so happy I had made it and it turned out to be what I wanted, it is definitely not perfect but I love it! and I had a great time with my family.
If I was to make it again some changes are needed, especially if to ever launch it as a pattern. I would need to work a lot more on the twist, adding bra cup (or not).
One other thing I have thought about is how could someone do a FBA on this pattern? I don't have an answer to that question. The top pattern piece has a very unusual shape and I wouldn't know how to advice someone on how to do one if they ever need...definitely lots of things to think about.
I would love one day to launch a swimwear pattern I really enjoyed making it not sure if it will be exactly this one or something else.
One thing I think it is worth mentioning in this post is; once you've sewn and worn you beautiful swimsuit at the beach or pool, DO NOT REPAIR BY MACHINE! If you have any alterations to do, do it before you wear it.
The sand and chlorine can break your machine. This may be a controversial subject, but I have experience this happening to my mother's machine and it was never the same no mechanic could fix it.
What are your thoughts, have you ever made a swimsuit? Leave a comment below and let me know.
Fabric from Funki Fabrics
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Dear sewists I am back!
I am not much of a blogger I must say, but I would like to try to keep track of some of my makes, at least the ones I manage to get my husband to photograph - and he's generally terrible at it.
Hello dear sewists!
As you may have seem Cologne is not a very complicated make. It comes together surprisingly quickly, once you get you head around the series of pleats from the sleeves and the elasticated cuffs.
Although Cologne comes with illustrated instruction, I also thought to include an extra resource to help you to achieve the sleeves detail at its best.
So I have created a video showing how to pleat the sleeves, plus the method I used to insert the elastic at the cuffs.
It is not a tutorial step by step of the whole blouse, but it is of the detail that had some of the pattern testers who were beginners pointing out as a resource that could help.
Please don’t forget if you make a cologne blouse to share with us on Instagram using the hashtag #cologneblouse and tagging us to your post!
]]>Welcome to our first ever inspirational post! In the last blog post you were introduced to Bella Loves Pattern first design, the Cologne blouse. I am super excited to show you some of the inspiration behind the Cologne blouse.
Let's agree that the 80's are in fashion and so are big puff-sleeves, the bigger the better! But how to wear such a statement blouse without looking like you came straight from the 80’s or just a different century?
If you want to have fun and make it more casual you have options like gingham, polka dots or a more traditional shirting fabric to give it a shirt look with a twist – you can also play with the direction of stripes on the sleeves, why not!
The obvious but still fun are solid colours, the details such as the pleats and cuffs will be more visible – I also love the idea of hacking The Cologne into a cropped version with waist darts or a organza version!
When I was searching through the endless rabbit hole of pinterest inspiration to make this post, I’ve found from casual outfits to more chic sophisticated ones, but what they all had in common is that they are paired with high waist bottoms. And that could be a casual ‘mom’ jeans to a more tailored pair of trousers or mid length skirts – I personally love it with high waist since it gives more balance to the volume at the top and the waist appears smaller.
As you can see Cologne is a very versatile blouse it can take you from a casual day to work and if you choose a more sophisticated fabric it can also take you to a fancy dinner.
It all depends on the fabric you choose and how you decide to style it. But the most important don’t be afraid to experiment and pair it with different bottoms.
You can get your Cologne blouse from our shop.
]]>Hello dear sewists!
I am happy to present to you my very first pattern the Cologne blouse. I can't lie the drafting of the pattern by far was the easiest part of the process. Everything else was new to me, from preparing sewing instructions to making a website, but nothing compares with finally getting out of your comfort zone and release the pattern to the world.
I am excited and nervous not only because it’s the first pattern, but because I really hope you like making it and enjoy wearing it too.
At Bella Loves Patterns we committed to work hard to give you the resources to make our patterns the tips and tricks of the sewing industry.
We wanted Cologne to be simple to make pattern that comes together rather quick once you passed the sleeves pleats. For that we have made a Youtube tutorial to guide you in the pleating process. Depending on you size you can make Cologne with the just a little over a metre.
It also comes with a fully illustrated instruction booklet to help you and guide you step-by-step, is one of the things I am personally proud since I had being years since I last used adobe Illustrator or made technical drawings.
Cologne is a loose fit blouse with bust darts and pleated lantern shaped sleeves, closed at the back with buttons. This shape is perfect for wearing tacked into you high waist jeans or skirts. Check our inspiration post here!
There are two views to this blouse – and view A is has short sleeves, finished with a facing around the neck, which I would highly recommend for beginners sewers. - You can always combine the facing view with the longer sleeves from the view B.
View B has has longer and more dramatic look to the sleeves. It is finished with a bias binding around the neck, stitched in the ditch – This finishing is perfect for more see through fabrics. And it is my personal favourite if I may say.
I can definitely see myself going to work wearing this white version!
The pattern is available in the sizes 6 UK / US 2 / EUR 34 to 20 UK / US 16 / EUR 48. I am already looking to include more sizes for the next patterns. If you want to check our size chart you will find it here.
Bella Loves Pattern really had the most kind girls to test the pattern, I can't thank them enough! they were absolutely AMAZING. First they sign up for an unknown pattern company, used their fabrics to make our pattern, they were so gorgeous. Secondly came up with really cute versions of Cologne plus lots of comments for improvement. When I look back at the draft I sent them can't imagine releasing those files anymore.
Cologne is now available to be purchased in a PDF format only and to celebrate the launch of Cologne, I would like to announce we are giving a 20% discount on the pattern until June 9th at midnight! Please use the code COLOGNE20OFF.
I hope you all enjoy making Cologne, don’t forget to share with us on Instagram by tagging us to your post and using the #cologneblouse. I would love to see your version.
If you would like to be a pattern tester please send an email to us at studio@bellalovespatterns.com
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